Choosing a door closer
Most closers that disappoint were simply the wrong size for the door. Three numbers decide it — how wide the leaf is, how heavy it is, and how much air is pushing against it.
1. Measure the door leaf, not the opening
Every model on this site lists a maximum door width. That figure refers to the door leaf itself — the panel that swings — not the frame opening and not the architrave. Measuring the opening instead of the leaf usually adds 30–60 mm and can push you into buying a closer a size larger than you need.
Width matters more than most buyers expect. A wider leaf gives the door more leverage against the closer, so a 1100 mm door needs meaningfully more force than a 900 mm door of the same weight.
2. What power size means
Power size is the industry's shorthand for how much closing force a unit produces. The larger the number, the wider and heavier the door it is built to close.
The instinct is to buy the biggest one available. Resist it. An oversized closer makes the door genuinely hard to push open — a problem for children, elderly users, anyone carrying something, and anywhere accessibility matters. An undersized one will not push the latch home, and the door drifts. Match the size to the door.
3. Find your width band
Our current range, grouped by the widest door each model is rated for.
851 – 1000 mm
9 modelsResidential entrance doors, office and corridor doors. The most common band.
1001 – 1250 mm
10 modelsShop entrances, wider commercial doors, solid-core and partly glazed leaves.
4. Then check these
Is the door exposed to wind?
This is the single most common reason a correctly-sized closer still disappoints. An exterior door, a door at the end of a corridor, or a door in a building with strong stack effect fights air pressure that no catalog number accounts for. If the door is exposed, tell us — it often means going up one power size, or choosing a model whose force is adjustable.
Fixed or adjustable power?
Models whose power size is written as a single number are set at the factory. Models written as a range (for example 2-5 or 3-6) can be tuned on site. Adjustable costs a little more but is worth it when you are buying for doors you have not measured yet, when the doors vary across a project, or when you are a distributor holding stock for unknown customers.
How do I estimate door weight if I cannot weigh it?
Tell us the leaf width, height, thickness and material — hollow-core timber, solid-core timber, steel, aluminium with glass — and we will estimate it. A guessed weight is the most common cause of a closer that will not latch, so it is worth asking rather than rounding.
Does the opening need a fire rating?
Our fire-engineering series is intended for fire door openings, but a series name is not a certification. If you are specifying for a fire-rated opening, ask us for the certificate covering the exact model and your market. If we do not have one that fits your requirement, we will say so rather than let you find out later.
One door, or a project with several door types?
For a single door, use the individual inquiry option. For a project, a distributor order or a door-fabrication line, use the wholesale option — you can put several models and quantities into one inquiry instead of sending several.
Tell us about the door instead
Send the leaf width, the material and whether it is an exterior door. That is usually enough for us to name the right model — and it is faster than working through this page.
Describe your door