Installation and closing-speed adjustment

Before fitting

• Check the model is rated for the leaf you are fitting it to. A closer under-rated for the door will not latch; one over-rated makes the door hard to open.
• Check the fixing-hole centres against the door and frame. Our model pages carry the dimension drawing for each body.
• On a concealed unit, confirm the leaf thickness and the grooving dimensions before anything is cut. This is the step that cannot be undone.

Setting the speeds

1. 1Set the main closing speed first. Open the door fully and let it close. The swing from fully open down to roughly fifteen degrees from the frame is what the closing-speed valve controls. Adjust until the door closes under control rather than drifting or slamming.
2. 2Then set the latch speed. The last stretch before the frame is controlled separately. It needs enough speed to push the latch home against the keep, and no more. Too fast is a bang; too slow and the door rests against the frame without latching.
3. 3Turn valves in small increments. A fraction of a turn is a real change. Turn a little, close the door, watch it, turn again. Do not back a valve out far — on a hydraulic unit that is how you get a leak rather than a faster door.
4. 4Re-check after the door has settled. Check it again once the door has been used, and again in a different season if you can. Hydraulic fluid is thicker when cold, so a door set on a warm afternoon closes more slowly on a winter morning.

Before you leave the door

• It latches from fully open, every time, without being pushed.
• It latches from a half-open position too — that is the one that catches an undersized closer.
• It is not so heavy to open that a child or an elderly visitor would struggle.
• On a fire door: it closes and latches with nothing holding it, from any angle it can be opened to.

The adjustment ranges on our model pages are the factory's own figures for the valve settings. They are not tested performance figures under EN 1154.